Fiat 128

This, the replacement for the 1100 was introduced in March 1969. It was the first production FIAT with a completely new transverse engine (1116cc, 55bhp, cast iron block, light alloy head, sohc with toothed belt drive) driving the front wheels and was available in two and four door saloons and an estate version. It was awarded 'Car of the Year' in 1969.
In 1971 the 128 Rally was introduced with a more powerful engine (1290cc and 67bhp) and numerous other changes including different gear ratios, a different alternator and battery, different tyres and the addition of a brake booster. It was only available with two doors.
At the Turin Motorshow, also in 1971, Fiat showed a new 128 derived coupe, the 'Sport Coupe'. This had two engines (the 1116cc unit now with 64bhp and the 1290cc now with 75bhp) and two trim levels (easily differentiated since one ('S') had single square headlights, the other ('SL') twin round units). The mechanical parts remained as in the saloon, but the body was all new, based on a shortened saloon floorpan. It was designed in-house by Fiat, whilst Bertone was given the task of designing a 128 Spider, which later emerged as the X1/9.
In 1972 the models were mildly revised, such as the fitment of a brake booster (from the 'Rally' version) across the range. Trim, the grille and other small changes were made. In 1974 the 'Special' arrived which had the four door saloon body with the 'Rally' engine (in this application rated at 60bhp) and numerous other minor changes.
In 1975 the 128 3P (3 door) replaced the Sport Coupe. The most significant difference was a rear end new from the B-pillar back which incorporated a hatchback. The rear seats could also be folded flat to provide a larger load area. Several other details were changed at the same time (new grille, lights), whilst in order to meet more stringent emissions standards the engine was modified (compression ratio raised, combustion chamber modified).
The second series was introduced in 1976 and included many changes. Externally there were new bumpers, lights and detail trimmings, whilst the engines were also modified as were the gear ratios, the driveshafts, brakes and electical system. Internally the dashboard, trim seats etc were all updated.

This post was last modified: 09-07-2006 07:51 AM by Kenno.

The following summarises the models produced :

from 1969 :
Berlina 1116cc
Familiare 1116cc
Rally 1290cc
Sport 1116cc ('S') & 1290cc ('SL')
Special 1290cc & 1116cc
Coupe 3P 1116cc & 1290cc
from 1976 :
1100 & 1300
Coupe 3P Special 1100 & 1300

After the Ritmo was introduced 128 production was cutback to only use the 1100 engine, whist in 1980 the Panorama was dropped from the range. Production finally ceased in 1985. Total production was 2 776 000 Saloons & estates and 330 800 Coupes and 3Ps.
The 128 was used as the basis for several prototypes through the years, including a coupe, the Pulsar, another sort of coupe, by Bertone and a type of beach car, the Teenager.

Technical Details

Driveline-transverse engine at frontwith front wheel drive
Engines-1116cc (80x55mm) in-line sohc 4 cyl with 55bhp @ 6,000rpm with 64bhp @ 6,600rpm in the Sport Coupé with 65bhp @ 6,000rpm in the Coupé 3P 1290cc (86x55.5mm) sohc with 60bhp @ 6,000rpm with 67bhp @ 6,200rpm in the Rally with 75bhp in the Sport Coupé with 73bhp in the Coupé 3P from 1976, in the new 128, the 1100 and 1300 engines produced 55bhp and 60bhp respectively, both at 6,000rpm
Suspension-front : MacPherson strut with telescopic dampers and coil springs plus anti-roll bar rear : independent with telescopic dampers and single, transverse leaf spring. wheelbase : 2448mm (coupe : 2223mm) track (front/rear) : 1308mm/1313mm (Coupe : 1325mm/1333mm)
Brakes-front : discs. diameter 227mm rear : drums, diameter 185mm front calliper piston diameter : 48mm rear wheel cylinder bore : 19.05mm handbrake operating on the rear via a cable
Gearbox-4 speed manual cable operated clutch disc diameter : 181.5mm
Steering-Rack and pinion (the first time on a production Fiat car) 3.5 turns lock to lock
Kerb Weight-Berlina : 805kg; Rally : 820kg; Sport Coupe S : 815kg

Tuning

There are three main areas to concentrate on, the engine (and transmission), the brakes and the suspension and then various other details. These three should be done together since they complement each other, not all of one and none of another !

1. The engine.

Before modifying the engine it is worthwhile filling it with a good quality synthetic oil and fitting new spark plugs. An engine oil additive may also be used.
The first improvements are relatively simple. The air filter can be replaced for an aftermarket item which will help the engine breathe more freely and the exhaust can be replaced for one which will restrict the exit of the gases less.
The main modification (outside of taking the engine apart) is to fit a better carburettor. Either a unit from a larger engined model, or you can buy a special inlet manifold to allow the fitment of other units. A camshaft will also provide a noticeable gain, especially if fitted in conjuction with the carburettor.
Other things to do should include fitting a cold air intake, a large diameter pipe (minimum 5cm) to provide air from outside the engine bay to the air filter. The exhaust manifold can also be lagged with thermal cloth or tape to keep the exhaust gases hotter (and thus reduce back pressure) and also to keep the underbonnet (and hence intake and fuel) temperatures lower.
The high tension leads can also be replaced with performance ones.
Further modifications require the machining of the cylinder headand/or cylinder block (which will not be dealt with here since it is not normally a DIY job) after which it may be worth fitting an oil cooler. If overheating is a problem due to the increased power output then a small hole can also be drilled through the plate in the thermostat.
Regarding the transmission the main requirement is to uprate the clutch to handle the increase in power and torque achieved though the engine modifications. Friction plates can be purchased with improved materials and heavier duty pressure plates are also available. Whilst doing this it is worthwhile lightening the flywheel.

2. The brakes.

Initially it is relatively easy to replace the brake discs with drilled and grooved items, and the pads for a harder compound. The latter should not be too hard (ie no race pads on the road) or they will not function effectively at the normal 'road' operating temperatures. Stainless steel braided flexible hoses will improve the pedal feel and reduce the chance of damage whilst DoT5 fluid (not silicon) will increase the temperature at which it can operate effectively. If the brakes are getting too hot the dustguards can be removed and/or ducts fitted, taking air from behind the front bumper.
If more serious braking is required the next modification would be to increase the disc size. It is possible to use larger discs with a bracket allowing use of the production callipers, or alloy four pot callipers can be fitted.
In order to improve the balance of the car under braking it is desireable to be able to adjust the balance of braking from front to rear (and vice versa). This can be accomplished by fitting a bias valve in the line to the rear brakes, usually in a position so that it can be reached from the drivers seat.

3. The suspension.

The easiest improvement,and the one which will probably bring the single most noticeable change, is to replace the dampers and springs. At the front, everything can be replaced, at the rear the suspension can be lowered by clamping the leaf spring. Top adjustable dampers are compromised, but are good for road and track day cars since it allows the suspension to be adjusted between these two, rather different, requirements. Coil over units add more adjustability and can be purchased outright, or can be made from standard dampers by welding a threaded sleeve to the standard tube.
There are then two other main suspension aims; to reduce the flexiblity in the suspension and to increase the stiffness of the car, both of which aim at more accurate control of the wheel movement. To reduce the flexibility it is possible to fit nylon bushes instead of the normal production rubber items, or if perfection is desired the suspension can be fitted with metallic bearings (rose joints / rod ends). Spherical bearing top mounts can also be used. To stiffen the car it is most popular to fit strut braces. These can be fitted to the front and rear. For more extreme cases a rollcage can be fitted.....
Into this category also fall the choice of wheels and tyres. With an increase in power it can be necessary to fit larger tyres (thus requiring larger wheels) but the temptation to fit the biggest possible should be resisted. Consideration should be given to fitting a wider tyre on the front (since they provide traction and steering) but keeping the standard, or a wider but not as wide as the front, tyre at the rear. This will improve the balance of the car.

4. other things.

Other modifications worth considering include fitment of a shift light (and rev limiter if there is not one as standard), higher power bulbs in the headlights (if you are going to go faster you need to see further) and installation of a quicker steering rack.

Maintenance

The following data refers to the 1978 saloon :
Scheduled maintenance :
Replace air filter : every 10 000km
Check tappet clearances : every 10 000km
Replace timing belt : every 60 000km
Oil & filter change : every 10 000km or 12 months
recommended engine oil : in cold climates (min temp below 0°C) SAE 10W/30, in warmer climates 20W/40
recommended transmission oil : SAE 90 non-EP
engine oil capacity (sump & filter) : 4.25 litres
transmission oil capacity : 3.15 litres
Spark plugs : Champion N9Y or Bosch W200T30, gap 0.5mm to 0.6mm
tyre inflation pressures (front/rear) : 1.8bar / 1.7 bar

Buying / Selling

Some tips to do before selling : (they may seem obvious, but most people don't do them and thus are in a weaker bargaining position).
Tidy inside the car thoroughly : hoover the floor, empty all pockets, ashtrays (wash), glove compartment etc..., wipe the trim with a damp cloth, give the cockpit a good airing to get rid of any odours ! Reset the trip meter to 00000 - it is a pleasant (subconcious) surprise.
If the car has been standing give it a good run - this will clear out the engine (reduce exhaust smoke), put a shine on the brake discs and loosen up any joints that may otherwise make some noises.
'Back to black' products are very effective at temporarily restoring bumpers and trim. This makes a big difference to any car. Do it a week before you expect people to view the car, otherwise it may be a bit too obvious !
Jetwash under the car, especially under the engine and in the wheelarches. The prospective buyer may be an enthusiast, and this makes it easier for them to see what they want to check.
Obviously wash the car and clean the windows !
If you are going to buy a car always check the following :
Firstly check the bodywork. Pay special attention to the wheelarches (inside if there is no plastic splash guard), suspension and engine mounts, sill, door pillars (check for sagging doors), scuttle panel and the floor (doors, bonnet and boot/hatch are also susceptible, but are more easily replaced). If a sunroof is fitted check around the edge for signs of rust. Check that there are no mismatching panels, large areas of discolouration or signs of fresh paint (compare inside the engine bay with the external body colour), all of which probably indicate accident damage.
Check for a damp carpet or the presence of mould - if the carpet is damp then the floor is almost certainly corroded.
Check the main electrical functions - wipers, lights, etc... try putting the main beam and wipers on at the same time. Check the headlight reflectors for rust.
Check the brake pedal does not go to the floor if pressed hard for a long time and check the gearchange for clean engagement.
The engine should be run up to temperature, check the exhaust for smoke, the condition of the breather (look for mayonaise), the condition of the oil filler cap (again white deposits can indicate head gasket or other serious problems or the use of the car only on short journeys, another bad state of affairs) and the colour of the coolant (preferably not thick or dark brown!). Listen to the noise of the engine, then depress the clutch and engage first gear. Whatever noise has disappeared was coming form the gearbox, what remains is from the engine. Also check the condition of the engine oil on the dipstick.The lighter brown the better, if it is thick black then leave quickly.
Check tyre wear, uneven patterns could imply a bent chassis.
Always take it for a test drive. Check that the car tracks in a straight line with no steering input and also remains straight under braking. Find a large open area and complete several lock to lock turns (also in reverse), listening for any noises. Try the handbrake when moving - seized rear callipers will mean uneven braking or no braking.
Generally, the 128 is mechanically pretty good, but the bodywork was weak, especially with the age of the cars now !